By Dr. Shweta Lamba Narula,
The short answer: AnaGain and Procapil are both cosmetic hair growth actives, no prescription needed for either. AnaGain works by reactivating signal molecules (Noggin, Wnt, FGF7) in the dermal papilla to restart the hair growth cycle; Procapil combines biotinoyl tripeptide-1, apigenin, and oleanolic acid to strengthen follicles and counteract DHT sensitivity. AnaGain has an independent clinical study showing 78% reduction in hair loss and 29% increase in the number of growing hairs at 3% concentration. Both are effective, but Pilgrim's Advanced Hair Growth Serum stacks them together rather than making you choose.
Two names that come up constantly in this space: AnaGain vs Procapil. Both appear on serums, shampoos, and scalp treatments; both are described as clinically proven. They work through completely different mechanisms, though, and understanding that difference is the key to making an informed choice.
What is AnaGain?
AnaGain (full name: AnaGain Nu) is a patented ingredient developed by Mibelle Biochemistry in Switzerland. It's derived from organic pea sprout extract, specifically from Pisum sativum, and falls into the category of next-generation botanical hair growth actives.
AnaGain works by reactivating specific signal molecules in the dermal papilla, the cluster of specialised cells at the base of the hair follicle that acts as the command centre for the hair growth cycle. The key molecules it influences are:
- Noggin: A growth factor that signals follicle stem cells to transition from resting to active growth phase. AnaGain increases Noggin expression.
- Wnt pathway signals: The Wnt signalling pathway is central to follicle cycling. AnaGain upregulates Wnt-related gene expression, encouraging the follicle to stay in or re-enter anagen.
- FGF7 (Fibroblast Growth Factor 7): Also called Keratinocyte Growth Factor, FGF7 is critical for the proliferation of follicular keratinocytes during active hair growth. AnaGain boosts FGF7 expression.
In a published clinical study, 3% AnaGain applied topically for 28 days showed a statistically significant improvement in the anagen-to-telogen ratio. The anagen/telogen ratio improved from 4:1 to 8:1 over the study period, and 78% of participants reported reduced hair loss. The study was conducted using dermoscopy and trichoscan analysis, giving it solid methodological grounding.
What is Procapil?
Procapil is a patented hair growth active developed by Sederma (part of the Croda group). Unlike the single-origin AnaGain, Procapil is a combination active. It blends three distinct ingredients to tackle hair loss from multiple angles simultaneously.
The three components of Procapil are:
- Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1: A peptide compound formed by attaching biotin to a tripeptide (glycine-histidine-lysine). This peptide has been shown in in vitro studies to improve anchoring of the hair follicle in the scalp dermis by strengthening the extracellular matrix around the follicle bulge area. Effectively, it helps prevent premature shedding by making the follicle's hold on the scalp more secure.
- Apigenin: A flavonoid found naturally in chamomile, parsley, and other plants. Apigenin is believed to inhibit diamine oxidase and support nitric oxide-mediated vasodilation in the scalp microvasculature, improving blood flow to the follicle. It also has mild anti-inflammatory properties.
- Oleanolic Acid: A pentacyclic triterpenoid found in olive and other plants. This is arguably Procapil's most interesting component for pattern hair loss, as oleanolic acid acts as a 5-alpha reductase inhibitor. It partially blocks the enzyme that converts testosterone into DHT (dihydrotestosterone). DHT is the primary driver of androgenetic alopecia, the hormonal hair loss pattern. By reducing local DHT activity on the scalp, oleanolic acid addresses one of the root causes of follicle miniaturisation.
Procapil's manufacturer claims a 58% reduction in hair loss in a 4-month clinical trial, though the full methodology of this study is less publicly available than AnaGain's data. The mechanistic rationale, particularly the DHT-inhibiting component, is well-supported by broader scientific literature on 5-alpha reductase.
AnaGain vs Procapil: How Do They Compare?
Mechanism of Action
This is the starkest difference between the two.
AnaGain works upstream in the hair cycle. It targets signal molecules to tell dormant follicles to re-enter the growth phase. It's a wake-up call at the biological signalling level.
Procapil works at multiple downstream points. It improves follicle anchoring, supports blood flow, and reduces DHT-driven miniaturisation. It's more of a protective and supportive formula than a pure growth activator.
For people whose hair loss is primarily driven by the follicle cycle going wrong (stress-induced, post-partum, nutrient deficiency-related), AnaGain's approach is highly targeted. For people whose hair loss has a hormonal DHT component (androgenetic alopecia), Procapil's oleanolic acid brings something relevant to the table.
Evidence Quality
AnaGain has an independent, published clinical study with specific numerical outcomes and dermoscopic methodology. The 28-day timeframe showing measurable anagen/telogen ratio improvement is impressive, and the study is publicly accessible.
Procapil's primary evidence comes from its manufacturer's data, and the full study methodology for the 58% hair loss reduction claim is less transparent. That doesn't mean it doesn't work. Dermatologists and trichologists who use it regularly report good outcomes, especially for androgenetic alopecia, but the independent evidence base is thinner.
Suitability for Indian Hair Types
Indian scalps tend to have higher sebum production and are often in hot, humid environments, both factors that can influence scalp health and follicle function. Both AnaGain and Procapil are cosmetic actives with good tolerability profiles; neither is likely to cause irritation on its own.
Where Procapil has an edge for the Indian population specifically: genetic androgenetic alopecia is extremely prevalent in India, affecting a significant proportion of men by age 30 and an underappreciated number of women. Procapil's DHT-inhibiting oleanolic acid component is directly relevant to this pattern. It should be noted that topical 5-alpha reductase inhibition is unlikely to be as potent as systemic options (like finasteride). Procapil is a mild, cosmetic-grade intervention on this front.
AnaGain or Procapil: Which One Should You Choose?
If you can only get one and you're dealing with diffuse thinning, stress-induced shedding, or a general slowdown in growth, AnaGain is the more directly targeted choice. Its clinical data on the anagen/telogen ratio is the most compelling single-ingredient evidence in this comparison.
If your hair loss pattern looks more like receding temples, thinning at the crown, or classic male/female pattern loss, Procapil's DHT-addressing component makes it worth prioritising.
The practical truth is that you don't have to choose. The smarter move is a serum that contains both and then some. If you want a formula built on the strongest available stem-cell and signalling science, the Pilgrim Advanced Hair Growth Serum is a good place to start.
The Pilgrim Product
The 3% Redensyl, 4% Anagain & 5% Capilia Stem Cell Complex Advanced Hair Growth Serum (₹795) makes this debate somewhat moot. It doesn't ask you to pick between hair growth actives. It gives you three of the most research-backed ones in a single formula.
- 4% AnaGain — the full clinically studied concentration, reactivating dermal papilla signalling
- 3% Redensyl — targeting ORSc stem cells to restart the growth cycle at the follicle level
- 5% Capilia Stem — a newer stem cell-targeting active with its own published efficacy data
This is what separates a serum that's trying versus a serum that's serious. If a single ingredient at 3% can shift the anagen/telogen ratio in 28 days, imagine what a triple-active formula does when used consistently over 12 weeks. Apply to a clean scalp, use twice daily, and give it at least one full hair cycle (about 90 days) to see the full picture.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is AnaGain the same as Minoxidil?
No. AnaGain is a cosmetic active derived from organic pea sprouts; Minoxidil is a pharmaceutical drug. They work through entirely different mechanisms. AnaGain requires no prescription, has no known initial shedding phase, and is safe for daily long-term use.
Can Procapil treat androgenetic alopecia (pattern baldness)?
Procapil can help slow the progression of androgenetic alopecia through its oleanolic acid component (a mild 5-alpha reductase inhibitor) and its follicle-strengthening peptide. It is not a cure and won't match the potency of prescription options like finasteride.
How long does AnaGain take to show results?
The clinical study demonstrated measurable changes in the anagen/telogen ratio at 28 days. Visible changes in hair density typically take longer. Expect 8-12 weeks of consistent use before drawing conclusions.
Is Procapil safe for women?
Yes. Procapil's DHT-inhibiting component (oleanolic acid) acts at a local, topical level with minimal systemic absorption, unlike finasteride, which has contraindications for women of childbearing age. If you're pregnant or breastfeeding, consult a dermatologist before starting any new topical active.
Can I use a serum with AnaGain alongside a shampoo with Procapil?
Yes. Given that they work through different mechanisms, layering them is complementary rather than redundant. Ensure your scalp is clean before applying the serum for maximum absorption.
What concentration of AnaGain is effective?
The published clinical study used 3%. The Pilgrim serum contains 4%, at or above the studied effective dose.
Does AnaGain work for post-partum hair loss?
Post-partum hair loss (telogen effluvium triggered by the hormonal shift after delivery) is exactly the type of hair loss that AnaGain's mechanism targets. Follicles that have slipped into telogen need a signal to restart anagen. Early data and clinical use support its efficacy in this context, though results take longer than the initial shedding resolves.
Why does the Pilgrim serum not include Procapil if it's so effective?
The Pilgrim Advanced Hair Growth Serum uses Redensyl, AnaGain, and Capilia Stem, three actives that together cover the stem cell, dermal papilla signalling, and follicle reactivation angles. Procapil is a valid active, but the current formula prioritises stem-cell-level intervention with robust clinical evidence.
References
- Mibelle Biochemistry. AnaGain Nu: Clinical dossier and mechanism of action.
- Sederma. Procapil: Technical and clinical data.
- Purba TS, Haslam IS, Shahmalak A, Bhogal RK, Paus R. Mapping the expression of epithelial and mesenchymal hair follicle-associated genes with the human scalp hair follicle growth cycle. Exp Dermatol. 2014;23(7):499-501.
- Suchonwanit P, Thammarucha S, Leerunyakul K. Minoxidil and its use in hair disorders: a review. Drug Des Devel Ther. 2019;13:2777-2786.
